Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," according to a official from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this venerable city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – little-known treasures that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation do not want to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these stories and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.