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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred establishments. However, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a far-flung area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” states the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small shop achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary honour.